When it comes to collecting watches, terms like “antique” and “vintage” seem quite similar. However, while both antique and vintage watches hold historical and sentimental value, they differ in terms of age, design, and collectability.

Here’s what you need to know.

Defining Antique Watches

Antique watches are a category of their own and are usually categorised according to age, historical significance and collectability.

Age

An antique watch is typically defined as being over 100 years old. This timeframe is standard across many collectable industries, where items are considered “antique” once they cross the century mark.

Watches made before the 1920s would now be classified as antique, including pocket watches from the late 1800s.

Historical Value

Antique watches offer a glimpse into the early stages of mechanical watchmaking. They often represent craftsmanship from a bygone era, showcasing intricate hand-finished movements, enamel dials and hand-crafted cases.

These timepieces tell stories from important historical periods, such as the Victorian or Edwardian eras, and often feature innovations that have shaped modern horology.

Collectability and Investment

Antique watches tend to be rarer than their vintage counterparts due to their age and the fragility of the materials used, making them highly collectable. Their value is often driven by their condition, originality, rarity and provenance.

Antique watches are typically seen as long-term investments. Due to their historical significance and rarity, they tend to appreciate in value over time, particularly if they are well-preserved or come from a renowned maker like Patek Philippe or Breguet.

Defining Vintage Watches

Vintage watches also hold unique characteristics that place them in their own category.

Age

Vintage watches typically refer to timepieces that are between 20 and 100 years old. This means that watches produced from the 1920s up to the early 2000s fall into this category.

Some examples would be the Rolex Submariner from the 1960s or an Omega Speedmaster from the 1970s.

Design

Vintage watches often feature classic and timeless designs, with smaller case sizes compared to modern watches.

These watches were also typically made with stainless steel, gold or even platinum. The use of acrylic or mineral glass for the crystals was common, as sapphire crystals were less prevalent.

Mechanical Movements

Most vintage watches use mechanical movements, either manual or automatic, as opposed to the more prevalent quartz movements found in modern watches.

Historical Context

Vintage watches are often tied to significant historical events, adding a layer of cultural or personal significance. For example, military watches from World War II or the Omega Speedmaster, worn during NASA’s Apollo missions, carry historical value in addition to their craftsmanship.

Factors to Consider When Buying Antique or Vintage Watches

When buying antique or vintage watches, it’s essential to consider several key factors to ensure you make a worthwhile investment.

Authenticity

Ensure the watch is genuine and hasn’t been altered with non-original parts, as this can impact its value and collectability.

Look for serial numbers, hallmarks and manufacturer stamps, and if possible, ask for original documentation or provenance from reputable sellers. You should also seek authentication from a professional watchmaker or trusted appraiser.

Condition

The overall condition of the watch is another important factor. Watches with their original parts and minimal restoration are often more desirable to collectors.

Pay close attention to the condition of the case, dial, hands and movement. Scratches, dents, and over-polishing can detract from the watch’s value.

Originality of Parts

A watch with all its original components—such as the case, movement, dial, and hands—is considered more valuable. Replacements or aftermarket parts can decrease the watch’s value. Look for watches with original crowns, bezels, crystals and straps.

Rarity and Model Significance

The rarity of a watch and its significance in the brand’s history can make it more collectable and valuable.

Limited-edition models, discontinued references or watches with rare features (like certain dial colours or materials) are more sought after. Models tied to significant historical events also carry additional value.

Provenance and History

A documented history of the watch can enhance its value, especially if it was owned by someone famous or connected to a significant event.

Ask for certificates of authenticity or other documentation that links the watch to its past. Auction houses or vintage watch dealers often provide detailed provenance for high-value pieces.

Servicing and Maintenance

Inquire about the watch’s servicing history and consider whether parts are still available. A regularly serviced watch may be in better condition but watch out for extensive repairs or modifications.

Investment Potential

While not all buyers are focused on financial return, vintage and antique watches are often seen as investments.

Look for watches from reputable brands with a track record of appreciating in value. Factors such as rarity, condition and historical significance play a large role in a watch’s future market value.

Seller Reputation

Buying from a reputable dealer is essential to avoid fakes or misrepresented watches.

Choose a trusted dealer with a good reputation or buy through well-established auction houses or specialist vintage watch dealers. Always ask for documentation and guarantees where possible.

Final Thoughts

Investing in a vintage or antique watch can be a unique and worthwhile purchase – something you can pass down to future generations.

If you need any help with a watch valuation, or you’re looking to purchase a watch for yourself or as a gift, contact Martins of Glasgow today.